Lucknow’s transformation, with the shift from Faizabad of the rulers of Awadh is, to date, the stuff of legends. Ruminating quietly by the waters of the lazy Gomti, Lucknow emerged as a vibrant hub of power and culture under the Nawabs. Empowered by the patronage of the arts and crafts by the rulers and the court Lucknow very quickly transfigured into a fabled epicentre of immense artisanal wealth.
The marriage of culture and crafts is an enduring legend in Lucknow. While the city’s consummate skills in chikankari and zardozi embroidery have received enormous acclaim, the city has many other lesser-known gems in its artisanal portfolio, which deserve the spotlight.
Let’s dig deeper into the shadowed lanes and by-lanes of the bazaars and the karkhanas scattered around Chowk, Aminabad and other spots in the old town to discover what remains hidden from the touristy tracts of the city.
Lakhauri Bricks
Your first encounter with these slim, rosy-hued bricks, also known colloquially as 'Gumma', are at some of Lucknow’s most epic nawabi architectural marvels, such as the climate-wise building of the Bara Imambara, Rumi Darwaza, and the Dilkusha Kothi Palace. Even the Hussainabad Picture Gallery Shahi Talab, dating back to 1839, featured lakhauri bricks. These were used in the construction of the separate zenana and mardana enclosures of the hamam khanas built on either side of the pond.
Lakhauri bricks, which were stuck together with a strong lime-and-brick-dust paste, had the ability to weather the elements over the centuries, unlike big blocks of stones. Made in lakhs (thus the word Lakhauri) these flat, rectangular bricks, made of plain river mud from the Gomti, and measuring about 100 mm × 150 mm × 20 mm and 100 mm × 150 mm × 50 mm, would be baked in massive kilns known as 'Pajawa'. Given their size Lakhauri bricks were infinitely versatile and could be used for arches and vaults, and also for shaping embellishments in walls and other features such as columns in the built structure. Old lakhauri bricks can still be found on sale in some markets.
Hand Printing
Few people are even aware that Lucknow also has a hidden tradition in the form of hand printing carried over from Farrukhabad, one of the oldest centres for hand printing. The karhanas of Lucknow produced everything from the Tree of Life, to the growing popularity amongst the colonials, the lovely mango-shaped paisley design.
Catapatti Craft
Also known as Tukri, Catapatti is an interesting home-grown craft involving the stitching together of leftover silk/ satin fabric cut into tiny geometric-shaped pieces to create a patchwork of intricate designs. Colourful satin patchwork found voice in a versatile range of gararas (voluminous Muslim skirts), dupattas, batuas (cloth purses) and borders on light quilts etc.
Mukaish Work
Today there are just a few craftsmen who keep this generational skill in tiny workrooms in the Chowk area in the city. A luxury pursuit created at first exclusively for the nobility, mukaish is one of Lucknow’s most delectable embroidery traditions since the 16th century. In its heyday the artisan only worked with real gold and silver threads to painstakingly create this canvas of ‘starry’ beauty. The three-step process involves Chapaayi (Printing the Design), Takaayi (Embedding the Metal Wires) and Ghutaayi (Polishing for the Shine). Kamdani is a more elaborate and intricate form of Mukaish work as opposed to Fardi Ka Kaam.
Minakari Jewellery
While Jaipur and Varanasi have long been feted for their splendid minakari jewellery traditions, Lucknow has been a bit of a dark horse when it comes to its rootedness in this Mughal-inspired tradition. Under the patronage of the Nawabs Lucknow’s meticulously created green and blue enamel on silver reached heights of untrumpeted glory. Gold enamelling was largely done in Delhi. Jaipur was notable for its red mina work and Varanasi, for its pink enamel work.
Naqqashi work
Also known as repousse work, Naqqashi is a technique for engravings on metal, which came into its own in the Nawabi times. Take home a slice of this heritage Naqqashi craft, available in many forms, including on utensils, plates, spittoons, paandaans, khasdaansIte etc.
Silver jewellery in Lucknow was largely inspired by traditional designs of paisley and floral designs. Silver too found its voice in the famous silver- engraved chappals or Chaandi ki Chappal, a unique painstaking artisanal tradition of Lucknow. It’s being now kept alive by the rising demand of young brides.
In the Chowk area stop by at a tiny workshop where artisans are keeping alive the city’s time-worn tradition of vark making. This unique silver foil, beaten into scraps of paper-thin sheets, will go on to embellish the famous Lucknavi paan or popular mithais sold at mithai shops around town.
Zarbuland Work
Another unique artisanal tradition of Lucknow is zarbuland work. This is a spin-off from Bidri work imported into the city from Karnataka state in South India. What distinguishes the two is that the design in Bidri work is an inlay, in Zarbuland the design is raised above the surface. This labour-intensive work involves moulding, carving, polishing, darkening, and engraving. Pick up intricately designed jewel boxes, bowls, kitchenware, hookah bases, trays, mugs, artefacts, etc as souvenirs.
Brass and Copper Utensils
Given Lucknow’s deep roots in the culinary crafts it’s no surprise that much is made of the copper (tamba) and brass (peetal) utensils the chefs used. Specific utensils were pressed into service to create those masterly dishes in the nawabi kitchens of Awadh. From huge copper degs (pots) to lagans (flat cooking vessels) each had a special niche on the kitchen shelf. These were metals of choice for the chef as the pots would distribute heat evenly, enhancing the flavours of the legendary dishes such as the biryanis and kormas. Back in the day the artisan would unleash his artistry on the vessels in the form of designs inspired by geometric, floral and avifaunal fantasies. The making of the vessels themselves was an art form, not just a functional tool for the bawarchis. Kalai, or polishing of copper vessels is a tradition which has grown hand in hand with Lucknow’s famous copper vessel making traditions. A wander along the old bazaar lanes, especially in Ahiyaganj, will reveal how these old handcrafting traditions are alive and catering to families across town to date. Pick up a lovely, intricately worked paandan or a surahi as a souvenir.
Lucknow remains a staunch custodian of India’s crafting heritage and as a visitor, your patronage of these lesser-known gems can help keep these traditions alive. So, do your bit to support the local artisans who are passionate about their generational skills.