Most journeys start with places.
The memorable ones start with questions.
Each of these curiosities opens a door into everyday Bhutan.
Step in, follow the story, and discover what it’s all about.
Phallus Images
When travelling around Bhutan, for some people, something they often observe might come as a bit of a shocker. Everywhere they go—be it in the lively urban spaces or the tranquil rural expanses with their lovely villages—there’s one thing that commonly stands out. Phalluses. They come in all sizes… painted in different colours… made from different materials—stone, metal, fabric, wood, or ivory. Sometimes they are on rooftops, sometimes at a crossroads pointed in the cardinal directions. Sometimes at the entrance of a home or painted on a wall and, often as not, in a shrine.
What on earth could they mean, one asks oneself?
To understand the importance of this symbol, we need to go back in time to uncover the deeds of the “Divine Madman”, the Tibetan lama Drukpa Kunley, who came to Bhutan in the 15th century. The eccentric monk was not only revered as a saint for his knowledge and out-of-the-box approach to the true teachings of Buddhism, but he also came to be the inspiration behind these phalluses, which are a sign meant to ward off evil and attract good fortune, wealth, health, peace, and wisdom.
The outrageous Lama Drukpa Kunley’s unorthodox approach to sharing the true teachings of the Buddha was fuelled by his use of humour, sexuality, and wit to tear away falseness and enlighten his flock. He would challenge the dogma of the prudish clergy, expose fake monks, give booze-soaked sermons, and display a bawdy humour. Also known as “The Saint of 5,000 Women”, he openly enjoyed his reputation for indulging in sex. He would make fun of false scholars by showing them his phallus. The act was a metaphorical way of teaching people to let go of their shameful secrets, weaknesses, and guilt, to become truly free and focus on positivity and goodness.
Find your way to the Chimi Lhakhang fertility temple at the southern entrance of the Punakha Valley. The temple, which is exclusively dedicated to the famous monk, is thronged with devotees. Among the worshippers you will find here are newlyweds, expectant mothers, and childless women seeking his blessings. Thus, the sacred phallus, apart from providing protection, is a symbol of fertility as well.
Uniquely, it is also a symbol of enlightenment, trampling upon ignorance and encouraging devotees to remain flexible and open the windows of their minds when seeking wisdom from the teachings of Buddhism.
One of the more unusual reasons that Bhutan has embraced phallus imagery in its religious landscape is that Drukpa Kunley used his male organ to subjugate Loro Duem, a demoness who used to linger around Dochula and terrorise passers-by. While fleeing, Loro Duem transformed herself into a dog to fool him, but the lama recognised her and struck her dead with his “flaming thunderbolt” so she could no longer trouble people. He buried her in a hillock, where the Chimi Lhakhang temple is now located.
Is today a festival… or does everyone dress this well every day?
To a first-time visitor, Bhutan can feel perpetually festive. Men in knee-length ghos and women draped in elegant kiras move through streets, offices, schools, and temples with effortless grace.
The truth is, traditional dress in Bhutan isn’t reserved for celebrations alone. It is worn daily as a mark of identity, respect, and continuity. In a world racing towards sameness, Bhutan chooses to dress in memory—quietly, proudly, and beautifully.
Prayer Flags for Harmony and Prosperity
Fluttering in the breeze, these multi-hued prayer flags will catch your eye on mountain tops, riverbanks, and people’s homes. You’ll also find them strung outside temples and small shrines all over Bhutan. For the faithful, the prayer flags are imbued with blessings, which the winds carry to all beings, bringing peace and prosperity in their wake. Festivals like Losar (New Year) or full moon days are considered auspicious for raising prayer flags. Traditionally, flags are raised at dawn to catch the morning breezes.
There are different kinds of prayer flags you will discover as you wander across Bhutan. The five colours of the prayer flags are symbolic of the five basic elements of nature: earth, fire, water, air, and sky. Additionally, these colours also represent the five basic emotions—joy, fear, sadness, disgust, and anger. You’ll discover they also symbolise the five, not four, cardinal directions: east, north, west, south, and centre. Sometimes, the popular Buddhist mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is also inscribed on the flags.
You should also look for flags which, at the centre, carry the symbol of Lung Ta (Wind Horse) with three flaming jewels (ratna) depicted on its back. These recall the legendary three flaming jewels, which are symbolic of the Buddha, Dharma (Buddhist teachings), and the Sangha (Buddhist community). The Wind Horse is surrounded by the Four Dignities, represented by the tiger, snow lion, garuda, and dragon. Inscribed alongside are many traditional mantras for a special deity.
A common recurrence is small white prayer flags, known as Goendhar, found in the middle of the rooftop of a traditional Bhutanese home. Rectangular in shape, these flags are edged with fluttering ribbons in green, red, yellow, and blue. Dancing to the tune of the breezes, the flags are supposed to bring wealth, health, and peace to the family.
Lungdhars, the sacred flags which come in two shapes—square or rectangular—can be seen hung horizontally or diagonally on a string. Look for them at mountain passes, bridges, and around monasteries or stupas, where they are elevated on wooden poles or flung over a rope.
If you find a row of larger vertical flags, you can identify them as Lhadhar prayer flags, or the “flags of the gods”. Though they feature ribbons in the colours yellow, green, white, red, and blue, they are generally devoid of text. The top end of the flag is decorated with a victory banner (gyeltshen) made of bronze or copper and plated with gold foil, in place of wooden designs. Look for them at places of significance such as palaces, monasteries, and dzongs. They are inscribed with images of the four sacred animals—tiger, snow lion, dragon, and garuda—who represent the triumph of good over evil.
The tall vertical white flags held by poles are known as Manidhar prayer flags; these are raised as a memorial to a deceased person. The person who raises 108 such flags accrues extra blessings.
Are we lost — or does this country really have zero billboards?
It may feel disorienting at first, especially for travellers used to constant visual noise. But Bhutan has deliberately chosen not to clutter its landscapes with commercial advertising.
What you see instead are uninterrupted mountain views, prayer flags against the sky, and architecture that speaks quietly of tradition. In Bhutan, the absence of billboards isn’t an oversight—it’s a conscious act of preservation.
Butter Lamps for Merit
The sacred, reflective Buddhist ritual of butter lamps seeks the removal of the darkness of ignorance and the pursuit of the light of wisdom. All over Bhutan, you will discover this evocative ritual being conducted in homes and temples, monasteries and small shrines. Through this serene, time-honoured daily ritual, people of all ages invoke the blessings of the divine, seeking to accumulate merit, enlightenment, and peace of mind. The lighting of the lamp is followed by the marmey moenlam prayer, seeking to dedicate one’s merits to all other beings for their escape from darkness.
Why Red Chilies Are Hung on Bhutanese Roofs
Chilies in Bhutan are a favourite culinary component. But many also consider them to have significant protective properties and supernatural powers; so, it’s no surprise that the Bhutanese are known to burn these vibrantly red chilies to deflect evil and negative energy. Little wonder you will find these fiery red chilies draped over rooftops and slung on strings in courtyards and entrances of homes across the length and breadth of the country.
Did you know that chilies came to Bhutan from India as far back as the 16th century? By the 18th century, they became an integral part of the famous national dish known as ema datshi. This stew, created with generous doses of chili peppers, soft cheese, onions, and tomatoes, is served at all main meals in a Bhutanese home.
Where are the traffic lights… and why is that policeman dancing?
There are none.
Instead of traffic lights, Bhutan relies on policemen trained in graceful, deliberate hand movements to guide vehicles through intersections. Their gestures are precise, calm, and almost theatrical—so much so that some visitors momentarily forget they are witnessing traffic control.
It’s not uncommon for first-time travellers to pause, smile, and briefly wonder if applause might be appropriate.
Next time you are in Bhutan, don’t hesitate to ask a local what something unique to you symbolises for his countrymen.
Because here, curiosity is not just welcomed—it is how understanding begins.